Monday 6 August 2018

Pattern Review: Pipi Pinafore

Hi All! It has been so long since I last blogged that my blog seems to have ceased to exist! Oops! This new post is about a pattern I was asked to review for Jennifer Lauren Handmade. The pattern is for an absolutely gorgeous Pinafore / Dungaree dress called Pipi, and is bang on trend, but is also a slightly more grown up version compared to some of those out there on the high street right now. The bib and the skirt are both darted so it's much more shapely and feminine. A good start!

On to the pattern: This was my first time taking the digital pattern to a print shop and it took me a while to find one locally that could print on sufficiently large paper, without trying to charge the earth for heavy quality paper. Now that I have one, I won't be letting them get away!

I also decided to try a new (to me) method of transferring the pattern pieces to fabric. I don't know about you, but I tend to change size and shape as the seasons change and the last thing I want to do is cut into my pattern only to find I need a different size the next time round. Tilly Walnes helped me out on this with a fabulous pattern cutting tip on her blog. Using dressmakers' carbon, I managed to keep all the pieces in tact and still accurately cut the fabric. My only point on this is that the carbon doesn't seem to show up on interfacing, so I went with my usual method here and adhered it to the main fabric before cutting.

Something I found extremely useful on Jennifer Lauren's pattern pieces were the notes on which side up to use the interfacing when cutting the pieces. A helpful little note saying "glue side up" is so simple but saved any head-scratching!

One thing I did find slightly confusing is that the diagrams of a couple of pattern pieces (calling to cut only one rather than a pair) were drawn in mirror image of the pieces on the pattern. I got round this by cutting a pair and working out at the time which piece was the correct one, but I wouldn't have done this had the pieces been larger. As it was, it was only the button band pieces that were affected by this.

I must say, the remainder of the instructions were very clear, and easy to understand. I am a relatively new dressmaker and am still learning some of the terms and techniques, so I was grateful for Jennifer's no nonsense use of language and helpful tips on any more tricky bits assembling the dress. And Jennifer, I did take your advice on turning the straps... feet up on the sofa, glass of wine at hand, the straps were turned relatively painlessly! I only wish I could have a more photogenic living room, but building work means our house is currently a bit of a bomb site - the hashtag #instareality springs to mind...




Once I got going with this pattern, I must say it was rather addictive and I found myself springing from one stage to the next quite quickly. Having chosen a lovely red polka dot cotton twill, I thought I would use white top-stitching... unfortunately the bulk of the straps, bib, and various darts within the waistband area meant that my top-stitching was not what I had hoped it might be looking rather more like a meandering river than a pair of railway lines. Fortunately the seam ripper was at hand and I opted in the end for a rather more sensible matching red top stitch, which I am much happier with. Note to self: a challenge is a good thing but, remember you are a beginner!

My next slip up came when finishing the waistband. I haven't rectified this one yet. I think, though I may have missed something, that the instruction regarding turning the raw edges in on the waistband has been missed out of the pattern... now this may be common sense for very many experienced dressmakers, and I did wonder about it along the way, but being less experienced, I imagined the instruction would come at some more appropriate point further into the process... oops! I currently have the raw edges of the waistband on the outside, as you can see below. I will need to get the seam ripper out and turn them in and then top stitch for a nice finish.


I absolutely loved watching the pockets come together and I really think the finished article is very effective and super cute - plus POCKETS! Who doesn't love a dress with pockets?! I was worried that I should be taking great pains to prevent the much lighter coloured lining fabric from showing at the edges of the pockets but actually, as I went along I found I rather liked the effect of the lining showing, just a little, at the edge of the pockets. A bit like a cheeky line of piping.

So here is the (almost) finished article. I have been procrastinating the button holes so I haven't quite got the buttons sewn on yet, but seriously, how beautiful are these vintage buttons?! I am pretty pleased with that little find.


I’ve so enjoyed sewing up this Pipi Pinafore pattern. It can be made with dungaree fastenings or buttons and would look super cute in a denim or needle cord with contrast stitching! I can’t wait to wear it... when the weather here finally cools down enough to wear actual clothes! If you fancy sewing up your own Pipi, you can purchase the pattern from Jennifer Lauren Handmade.